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Art & Culture On Maui
www.ArtandCultureOnMaui.com
8
M
oloka`i is known throughout
the Hawaiian Island chain
as "The Friendly Isle" with
good reason. In fact, while you may fi nd
yourself on the receiving end of a curious
glance, it's most likely that one of the
7,500 residents don't recognize you. Yet
it's nearly always followed with a warm
"Aloha, welcome to Moloka`i."
And it isn't hard to feel as though
you're the sole visitor to the 38 by 10
mile rock, with its solitary traffi c light,
a handful of stop signs and locals who
encourage the "Slow down, you're on
Moloka`i" sentiment.
Once the training grounds for all
Hawaiian kapuna and kahuna (Hawaiian
spiritual leaders) as well as the home of
hula, exiled law-breakers and those with
an incurable affl iction, Moloka`i is now
an adventurer's dreamland. From pine
forests that butt the tallest sea cliffs in the
world, to horse pastures, coconut palmed
beaches and grassy knolls, you can fi nd a
bit of each on this tiny tropical sanctuary.
Kaunakakai Town, located roughly
in the center of the island (off Mauna
Loa Highway), is a sleepy cowboy-esque
town with a handful of gems. Moloka`i
Fish and Dive has every piece of ocean
or land equipment you need for an
adrenaline rush. Whether it's a SCUBA
tank, spear or fi shing rod, snorkel gear,
mountain bike or kayak, it's all there.
In addition, they corral
the top adventure
guides on island. Mosey
up to the counter and
tell the owners what
you're looking to do on
Moloka`i. They're eager
to get the ball rolling
on what is sure to be an
unforgettable Moloka`i
experience. Remember,
Moloka`i is home to
some of the world's
best fi shing, diving and
snorkeling on the entire
island chain. On nearly
every excursion you can
be assured you won't see
another two-footed soul.
A few miles west
of Kaunakakai, the
fi shponds at Kiowea
Beach Park are an
ideal place to spend the
sunrise or sunset hours.
The coconut trees at
neighboring Kapuaiwa
Coconut Beach Park
were planted during
King Kamehameha
V's rule. Grab a fallen coconut, toss it
in the car, and ask a local how to husk
it properly. It's an experience worth its
weight in liquid coconut.
Break off Mauna Loa Highway and
bear right up Route 470, north towards
Kalaupapa and Pala`au State Park. Two
miles in, stop at the corner of Rt. 470 and
Farrington Hwy/Rt. 480 for a "fueling"
at the Coffees of Hawaii Moloka`i
Plantation. The outside "café" is buzzing
with farmers and business folk in the
morning hours, and a meeting ground for
artists and in-the-know caffeine-junkies
all afternoon. Inside the shop, brave the
local java mixed with Hawaii-made ice
cream. Connected to the plantation is a
wonderful gift shop cum art gallery--
perhaps the best place on Moloka`i to
purchase local-made art (sculptures,
jewelry, paintings and wood carvings),
books, coffee paraphernalia and gifts.
Further up Route 470 is Pala`au State
Park--a swath of verdant forest, cut by
manageable trails, and glorious vistas of
the sea--hundreds of feet below. After
exploring the spruce- and pine-laden
trails, consider a hike or mule ride down
the cliff-side switchback trail that leads
to the village of Kalaupapa. Famously
the location where revered minister
Father Damien committed his time--and
life--to living with the 19th century
leper colony, a giant cross commemorates
where Damien was laid to rest.
Having surely worked up an
appetite, head back down towards
the coffee plantation, where just past
you will fi nd a hidden culinary gem
unmatched in Maui County. Lunch at
the Kualapu`u Cookhouse is a tease of
what's offered in the evenings at this
authentic Hawaiian eatery. Don't let the
simple décor fool you: The kitchen here
churns out homemade guava BBQ sauce
(to slather on baby back ribs) and maple
syrup-glazed lamb, in addition to fresh
catch prepared a number of ways.
Further down the road from
Kualapu`u is Purdy's Macadamia Nut
Farm, in Ho`olehua. Learn how to "crack
a Mac" and take a few boxes for the road.
In the tiny Maunaloa Town, just
opposite the entrance to the now-
closed Moloka`i Ranch, is Jonathan and
Daphney Socher's Big Wind Kite Factory,
a Moloka`i institution. With the purchase
of one of Jonathan's custom made kites,
he'll take you out to the picturesque
lawn fronting the shop, and share some
nautical secrets to send you soaring. Inside
the eclectic shop, his wife sells a wild
assortment of crafts and jewelry made by
local artisans.
While the fate of the Moloka`i
Ranch and its glorious Lodge and Beach
Village accommodations has yet to be
determined, rest assured that there are
still overnight options on "The Friendly
Isle." First, for those looking to "rough it"
you can contact the Maui Visitor's Bureau
and inquire about camping permits across
the island. A multitude of secluded,
private beaches, soft, covered forests and
open fi elds would make for a glorious
camping experience.
Next, a handful of condominium
and town homes are scattered across the
island. They can be found at the helpful
Maui Accommodations Guide, which you
can fi nd out more information about and
link to at www.BonHawaii.com. This
option provides affordable stays with the
fl exibility of having your own kitchen,
laundry and more. It's the true way to feel
like a Molokaian!
Last, there are a few luxury homes
for rent on Moloka`i, which can also be
found in the Maui Accommodations
Guide, as well as at www.Molokai-
Vacation-Rental.net. For those looking
for the ultimate in luxury and seclusion,
yet with the amenities of upscale services
(like onsite masseuse and chef), this is the
option for you.
by Brian Berusch
Moloka`i: The Island Less Traveled
B on Hawaii is the ultimate web
site for those with a need to
be "in the know" on Hawai'i's
breaking travel, culinary, lifestyle
and wellness trends. Publisher
(and international travel expert)
Brian Berusch shares engaging
articles and fun interviews with
Hawaii's top players, through
a unique style of writing.
Visitwww.BonHawaii.com to
explore the inside scoop on
Hawaii's hottest happenings.
One of the most beautiful areas in Moloka`i, Halawa Valley was fi rst settled in the 7th Century by people from the Marqueses Islands.
Kaunakakai Town is a sleepy cowboy-esque town with a handful of gems.
Visiting the village of Kalaupapa requires a hike or mule ride down
the cliff-side switchback trail.
Photo Courtesy of Hawaii
T
o
urism
Authority (HT
A)/Ron Dahlquist
Photo Courtesy of Hawaii
T
o
urism Japan (HTJ)